Bordeaux 2007 gets quantum of solace

13 June, 2008

Despite negativity elsewhere in the trade, the 2007 Bordeaux vintage has been given a vote of confidence by Mark Savage MW, owner of Gloucestershire merchant Savage Selection.

Savage said: "As one of those vintages destined to be the victim of negative press reports even before the grapes are off the vine, 2007 starts its commercial life with a handicap.

"The key to understanding 2007 can be found by comparing it with the 2003 vintage, to appreciate the extraordinary length of time from the flowering to the picking. It has rightly been described by Jancis Robinson as the polar opposite of 2003, for the very good reason that the respective growing seasons were so different.

"Where the 2003 was some 10 days shorter than normal, the 2007 was at least three weeks longer, allowing the fruit to reach full physiological maturity and the tannins to ripen fully as well as the natural sugars. It is this extended maturation period that makes the 2007 vintage so unusual.

"No one denies that 2007 made greater than usual demands on the vigilance of the vigneron," Savage continued, "but the problems were manageable. The suggestion that a 'difficult' vintage is consequently a feeble one must be resisted.

"We are happy to suggest that there will be pleasant surprises in 2007. Vitality and energy in wine comes from fruit that has freshness. If you eat fruit that was picked in the cool of the morning it tastes crisper and more refreshing than that which was picked during the heat of the afternoon when the plant shuts down for a siesta.

"If this most recent vintage does not appear to have a glamorous enough image," concluded Savage, "then perhaps we should be referring to it as the 007."

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